A Weekend Getaway in Jeju

This past weekend, my friends and I booked a last-minute four-day trip to Jeju. We mostly just made sure our flight times and Airbnb were set before leaving. 

The flight to Jeju took less than an hour, and we arrived hungry, so we immediately hunted down at the nearest restaurant. What we didn’t realize, though, was how different the restaurant culture was from Seoul’s. In Seoul, especially in major areas like Sinchon or Myeondong, it is easier to find English-speaking staff or English translations on menus. In Jeju, it is much less common. So, if you are planning to vacation in Jeju, pick up a few basic Korean phrases to help with ordering or asking questions. Simple phrases like 'annyeonghaseyo' (hello), 'iyagihae juseyo' (please explain), 'igeo juseyo' (please give me this), and 'gamsahamnida' (thank you) go a long way. You might also want to download a translation app like Papago or Google Translate. Learning just a handful of words will make your experience smoother, and the locals will appreciate the effort.

Jeju, on the other hand, is less accommodating, as many menus I looked at were entirely in Korean, and workers spoke little or no English. So, if you are planning to vacation in Jeju, pick up a few basic Korean phrases. Jeju locals are extremely friendly and ecstatic when a foreigner can even say “gamsahamnida”—which isn’t common in Seoul. Restaurants in Jeju are pricier and close much earlier, so plan ahead and practice those Korean phrases. One of my favorite food spots we stumbled upon in Jeju was a local fried chicken restaurant a few minutes from our Airbnb called 노랑통닭. The chicken was phenomenal, and the staff was truly my favorite part of the experience. I definitely recommend stopping by at least once—we loved it so much that we went twice! 

On another note, be ready to Uber almost everywhere. Although Jeju also has a bus system just like Seoul, there are two important distinctions: the rides take twice as long, and if you miss one, you will likely have to wait 20-30 minutes for the next. For context, a typical Uber ride across town can cost 10,000 to 18,000 KRW (about 8 to 14 USD) for a 15-25 minute trip, which you can split among your group. Bus fares are much cheaper, usually around 1,500 KRW (just over 1 USD) per ride, but the extra time you spend waiting or traveling may not be worth the savings if you are on a tight schedule. In Jeju, Ubers can be a faster and more practical way to get around with a few friends.

Our main goal for Jeju was simple: the beach and a hike. 

Our Airbnb was located up north, directly opposite the shore. We didn't expect the northern “beaches” to be rocky rather than sandy, but we ended up taking an Uber to Gwajku Beach. It was a fairly small beach compared to what I am used to, so don’t expect super long walks on the sand; nevertheless, that didn't take away from its beauty and serenity. It wasn’t too packed, the water was warm for September, and there were some decent food options around, too. If you can make it to Gwakju, make sure to get the Coconut Coffee drink from Công. 

The next morning, my friends and I all struggled to get out of bed at 5 AM to head over to Hallasan National Park. This was a last-minute plan we decided on before our trip, and, frankly, we could have been better prepared for the hike in terms of clothing and warming up. I recommend a good pair of sneakers or hiking shoes, layers (depending on the season), and a good windbreaker, as the summit gets super windy. We spent about four hours hiking up Mt. Hallasan, mostly on paved paths, stairs, and rocks. I partly appreciated that it was hard to get lost, but my calves did not, and the hike felt never-ending. Still, I don't regret the experience at all, and it was 100% worth it in the end. The view from 6,400 ft above sea level, with friends and a triangle gimbap from CU, made the effort worth it. Even if my legs don’t allow it right now, I would definitely do that again in a heartbeat. 

I love Seoul and living here, but nothing compares to the quiet, slow-paced life a region like Jeju offers. If you are planning a trip to Jeju without much of an itinerary yet, I definitely recommend at least visiting one beach and hiking up Mt. Hallasan—you will not regret it. Beyond those memories, take in the simple, seemingly mundane parts that smaller, more rural areas have to offer.