Savvy Seven: El Parque del Buen Retiro Edition

If I could sum up this entire blog in one sentence, it would be this: El Parque del Buen Retiro has my heart. As someone who grew up in Colorado, I’ve been privileged to have consistent access to the outdoors. Because of my love for fresh air and spending time outside, I was nervous to move to a large city… where will I find fresh air or even trees? My fears were quickly put to rest by “El Retiro.” 

This park, though not the largest in Madrid, sits right next to the city center. It is literally a breath of fresh air, replacing the sharp city skyline with the soft greens of the trees and aromas of leaves and flowers. Sounds idyllic, right? I'm here to point you to the seven of the best spots in Retiro so that you can find your oasis within Madrid. 

1) Estanque Grande 

This is the most photographed part of Retiro, and for good reason. Right in the middle of the park, there’s a pond (as indicated by its name, estanque) where you can rent rowboats. If you have time—and a decent amount of patience for the people you're exploring with—I absolutely recommend taking an hour out of your day to rent a rowboat. It's the perfect mix of city hustle-and-bustle with blooming trees and laughter echoing over the water.  

2) Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez 

On the east side of the pond, you’ll find one of my favorite hidden gems in Madrid: the Jardines de Cecilio Rodríguez. Don't judge a garden by its name: this unsuspecting “garden” is actually home to dozens of peacocks! 

It's truly a sight to see when the birds walk through the pavilion, and even more exciting when they fan out their feathers. If you're hoping for a peaceful picnic, though, I would consider a different part of Retiro—these feathered residents will approach you and hope to share your lunch. No need to wing it in Retiro when you know that this is a must-see!  

3) Palacio Cristal 

The Palacio Cristal is a magical escape from the hustle and bustle of Madrid. It's a little palace made of glass and its own pond boasting swans, ducks, and turtles. There is usually a musician performing nearby, creating a dreamy, other-wordly ambience—a “light academia” aesthetic, if you will. I recommend taking a seat on the steps of the palace, listening to the music, and watching as the animals swim about the pond. 

4) Plaza Parterre 

The Plaza Parterre sits on the side of the park closest to the Prado Museum—another must-see in Madrid—and faces west. That may not seem like a big deal, but it makes all the difference: the Plaza is the perfect spot to watch the sun set over the city skyline. With its benches and stone ledges, the plaza invites you to slow down and take in the views. 

5) La Rosaleda 

Want to stop and smell the roses? La Rosaleda is the spot for you! This part of El Retiro is particularly beautiful in the late spring and summer, when the flowers are in full bloom. It's a quaint garden boasting various fountains accented by pops of colors from the blooming flowers. 

6) Monumento a King Alfonso XII 

This Roman-looking monument overlooks the iconic Estanque, but I listed it separately because it really is a feat within itself. 

The grand columns are perfectly complimented by the details of the statue honoring “The Peacemaker” of Spain, serving as a reminder of the country’s rich history. This is also an ideal “people watching” spot, since you have a perfect view of the rentable rowboats (and the many people who don't know how to steer them well). 

7) Cafes Throughout 

If there's one thing you should know about Spaniards, it's that they love to stop for a drink and a snack. Whether you prefer café con leche or una cerveza with your tapas, there are plenty of little cafes that are happy to oblige. 

You can take your snacks and drinks to go and find a shady tree to sit under, or sit at one of the tables and enjoy the outdoor cafe atmosphere. After all, you should never explore on an empty stomach! 

Honorable Mentions

Not quite the Savvy Seven, but certainly worth mentioning! 

• La Fuente de Alcachofa - I just think it's awesome that there's a fountain named after artichokes. 
• Cafes throughout the park - food and drink options 
• Many musicians and street performers - There's endless entertainment around every corner of the park. 
• Paved and unpaved paths - these are great for both leisure and exercise. I like to run through the park, but there are many walking and biking areas, too. 

The Best of Madrid Waits for You

No matter how much time you have to explore this city, El Parque Retiro should be at the top of your Madrid to-do list. There’s something for everyone here, and these seven spots are just the beginning. Whether you’re rowing across the pond, watching the sunset, or wandering through blooming gardens, Retiro invites you to slow down and savor the beauty of the city.

Looking for more savvy recs? Find me on Mapstr (travel_with_savvysav) or check out the hashtag #makingamadrileña on TikTok!