The trip started, as most do, with a car, a contract, and a discussion on whether or not we should pay for a prepaid tank of gas. But I’ll fast forward through those nitty-gritties. On the road we went. Destination? Oviedo. Asturias would be our first stop.
The way there felt like we were rolling through that ride at Disney where you pass through different movie sets, except we rolled through seasons. One second we were winding between snow-covered mountains, the next we were among the greenest hills I’d ever seen. Probably one of my favorite observations from the trip was that you’ll be on the highway and the speed limit will be 120 km/h, then it’ll be 90 km/h, eventually getting to 30 km/h when you go through a town. These towns consist of a 1 to 2-minute stretch of highway (one lane, each direction) and on the mountain side of the road there’s a pharmacy, a bar, and laundry hanging out the window of homes. The other side is a drop down (I didn’t look). Before you know it, the town name is on a rectangular white sign with a diagonal red line through it signaling “you are now leaving” whatever town it was. The speed limit jumps back up. We’d do this dance many times along the way.
We made only one stop on the way, to purchase jamón chips, of course, so we got to Oviedo just when the sun was setting around 8:30pm. I’d picked this particular place to stay because it had beautiful views of the city. I’ve learned that if a place has beautiful views, that usually means the drive to get to it requires going up steep hills often with twisties. Also picked it for the breakfast the next day. The room had a view and it was breathtaking. At night we could see the town lit up like the reflection of stars in a tiny pond between the mountains.
By 10:15pm we were seated at Tierra de Astur, recommended to us by the hotel and a popular spot on Calle Gascona--the street of cider. This is where the major sidrerias are. Once you order your 3€ bottle of cider, the waiter will perform the pour. Proper pour position is: bottle is lifted above head, arm straight up in the air, eyes looking straight ahead, not up at bottle, glass is held in other hand below waist, that arm is pointing downward, commence pour. Beware of some drizzle on your ankles! No one says that, but now I’ve told you.
Along with our yummy cider, we wanted to have fabada--the special Asturian stew of fava beans and Spanish meats. They were out of it! So we had a similar stew instead, with cabbage. It was delish. The chorizo was amazing and having the bread to sop up every last bit was a life-saver. Oh my goodness, I skipped perhaps the best part of the meal. We started with a wonderful cheese--Rey Silo. It arrived beautifully laid out on a block of wood with some quince (sweet) paste and apple slices. I loved the cheese so much, I wrote down its name in my phone. It forced me to create a memo on my phone devoted to “Cheeses We Like.”
We finished off the meal with what the waiter suggested as a typical Asturian dessert: leche frita (fried milk). It came cinnamon-sugared-up in a bed of tasty creamy yellow liquid. Inside the fried exterior was a soft milky interior. All of this for 25€ people, get going!
The next morning we had breakfast in a room with windows for walls showing the beautiful views of the city. At times it felt like we were looking at a green screen. It was hard to yank ourselves away, but we managed to do so and headed out to see some of Oviedo in the daytime. We had to hustle because our next stop for the night was in Pembes--about 112 miles away. And we needed to stop in Gijón, Covadonga, and somewhere in the Cabrales region for a cheese tasting.
We made a point of looking for Mafalda in Oviedo and we found her on a bench in a park! After a solid photoshoot, we walked around. There were Botero statues, rainbow-painted benches, and a long line outside of Starbucks because they were handing out cups for a free drink. We purchased 2 disposable cameras and headed for Gijón.
In Gijón we walked along the beach for a bit, took some pics with the established photo-op--Gijón in red letters on the waterfront--and got back in the car to go to Covadonga. Along the way we pulled over for souvenirs. How could I not stop, it was a giant building filled with souvenirs. I left without a purchase and regret.
In Covadonga we circled around and around the same small area ready to pounce on a parking spot. A giant waterfall jutting out of an imposing mountain cascaded into a tiny reservoir. People were walking up the side of it to go into a cave that housed a chapel and shelves of candles. We would do the same.
If this post sounds a little packed, I’d like to tell you that the trip was more than a little packed, to the point where it’s hard to recall what was done on which day. I’m getting stressed just writing about it. But I’m also grateful.
After Covadonga, we called a cheese factory to see if they were open for tours. Luckily they were. I haven’t been that close to real cows perhaps ever. We even watched them get milked by a machine! And we saw a baby calf. The tour finished with some samples. Queso de cabrales is not for the faint of heart, I’ll leave it at that.
Leaving the cheese factory, I was struck by how peaceful it felt to be standing in the middle of fields and mountains. My city-self is not always at ease in the midst of wide open spaces. But here, I breathed it in. And how wonderful it was. Asturias.