O ‘tis but a joy to be an auxiliar. Oh the places you’ll go. The puentes you’ll have! Who could complain?
This past puente I found myself visiting a friend in Geneva. Random. YES! But that’s what’s exciting about living here. You take those kinds of trips that you probably wouldn’t if you were flying to another continent for a week’s vacation from work. I’d never been to Switzerland before and was very excited to add another country to the list!
Traveling is exhilarating. There is always something new to see, to eat, to hear. It’s a full sensory experience. Switzerland has such an interesting mix of languages and people. At the airport there was a sign saying “Bienvenue. Welcome. Wilkommen.”
That night my friend took me to an outdoor market with little stands from which to buy olives, cheeses, breads, beers, wines, everything! Heaven! And it was crowded with people standing everywhere and sitting all over the ground with their cheese plates, antipasti platters, beers, and wines. Thankfully my friend is a fluent French speaker, so I could just relax and enjoy the eating.
We had an incredible cheese plate -- my favorite was Gruyere. The land of Gruyere. I had a dream to visit Gruyere and the chocolate factory nearby in Broc, but wasn’t sure it would work out because of transit and money. I had given up the dream until I was reminded of rental cars. What an invention, right? We would rent a car Sunday to drive to the chocolate factory and Gruyere. And then of course all of these other options piled on the visit-plate: Charlie Chaplin’s world near Montreux, Montreaux--home of all things jazz, the Queen Studio Experience, a lake promenade. Too much, as usual. I’ve found myself more on the side of hustling on trips than on the relaxation side. And I’m not unhappy about it!
So, Friday we wanted to go to Bern. We didn’t buy the tickets ahead of time. Switzerland is NOT a cheap country. I repeat: Switzerland is a VERY EXPENSIVE country. But what could we do? We were only there this one time. So we bit the bullet and bought tickets that morning at the station. I can’t share the price. It was worth it, regardless.
At the train station we purchased some snacks as the ride from Geneva to Bern is just under 2 hours. I had a gut feeling I should get the pastrami sandwich on a light brown bread. Looked like there were greens in it and some sauce. We also got a mini quiche. WOW!!!! The pastrami sandwich was incredible! I can taste it as I write this. If only I could ship them in tons to me. If only…
So, the train ride was entertaining and not just because of the snacks. The train chugs (in a 21st-century sense) right along the lake and my goodness how gorgeous it is. Oh and also the Alps are there. THE ALPS. I’ve never seen anything like it. For those of you who think “mountains are mountains, come on.” No. Just, no. These mountains are incredibly and overwhelmingly gorgeous, pointed, intimidating, lovely. I gotta say I could not stop thinking about the Disney Matterhorn while there. Disney really does an incredible job of evoking the aesthetic of a place…
So the train ride was an attraction in itself (another justification for the price of the tickets). We arrived in Bern and I was googly-eyed. I just love being in a new place--such a funny concept for me, so anti-change, so into the new. Now that I’m home I can’t remember how I became aware of a museum pass. Oh I think it was some online research on the train. This was one of the least-planned trips I’ve ever taken. [We had a hotel booked in Barcelona for Monday-Wednesday, but no travel booked to get there hahaha, it’s funny now looking back hahaha.] So the museum pass! We calculated it made sense to get it, so we went to the tourist office at the station. What a joy to have a credit-card-like card just for museums. It was incredible to waltz into a museum, show the card, and be granted access immediately.
Our first stop was the Zentrum Paul Klee. I didn’t love it, but the setting is beautiful. You have to take a bus from the station to the museum and that’s very easy to do. There was an exhibition devoted to Down syndrome and an exhibition on Klee’s work during WWI--a bit uncomfortable because he was drafted into the German army. The museum seems to be a spot for events more than for the Klee work (though I’m sure Klee specialists are thrilled with it). The building designed by Renzo Piano was the most intriguing--three metallic gray slopes in the middle of the hills.
After the Klee stuff, we took the bus back down to the Barenpark. The symbol of Bern is the bear, and so they are known for this bear pit, literally. We passed a mini stone pit but saw no bears. We realized there why some would be upset by the treatment of the bears. I had read that there was a new home for the bears that was more suitable. I desperately wanted to see the bears, but amongst the trees next to the river, we saw nothing. Then! The bear! Napping in the shade! Couldn’t get a good photo. Of course upon walking away from the bears we see that two of the three bears are right there out in the open next to the bridge. Bears, check. Lovely meeting you, Bjork, Finn, and Ursina.
We walked onto the main drag and passed so many shops, so many well-dressed people, so many “classy” restaurants. We saw a lot of these doors that opened to what seemed like an underground cellar where the monsters hide in horror films but these turned out to be steps leading down under the street to shops, cafes, etc. That seemed to be a popular thing. We passed the Einstein house and went (covered by our museum pass). Einstein lived in Bern for a bit. Some places will really really take advantage of any big name that can be associated with the place.
We continued and found a beautiful chocolate shop with a beautiful tiny sandwich on pretzel bread. Delicious. It had the magic touch of a pickle.
We then found a cafe and took a chance on a good looking apricot cake. Not my favorite flavor, but it looked good. It was incredible. Fresh, soft, not dry, delicious. AMAZING.
We trekked onward towards the famous clock. Passed a shop with a beautiful display of buttons, arranged by color. Once we got closer to the clock we saw that it was covered with a sheet. A trompe l’oeil! I’d been fooled!
The Kunstmuseum had an amazing exhibition on the works discovered in the apartment of Cornelius Gurlitt, son of Hildebrand Gurlitt--art dealer for the Nazis during WWII. I was impressed by the museum’s openness to present their work as it is--in the process of determining provenance. It’s kind of a mystery why Cornelius Gurlitt bequeathed the art to the Kunstmuseum in Bern, and they mention that. Every work has a label telling you they know who it was stolen from, if it was stolen, if it wasn’t, etc. It was special to be there for this show.
I’m gonna skip ahead to the snacks we purchased for the train ride home. There’s an incredible (yes, I’ve overused this word) chain of quick-stop food called Brezelkonig. How I wish they existed elsewhere. We got a Raclette Pretzel and a hot dog stuffed inside a pretzel bun. They had all kinds of pretzels, but I can attest to the goodness of the raclette option. And the hot dog one. Wow.
In Geneva we took a boat tour on the lake, we walked around the old town, we saw the university. We passed all the watch companies you can name in 10 seconds and some immaculate chocolate shops. Major food stop in Geneva was crepe cafe. We had a waffle with salted caramel topping and two crepes: one with spinach, egg, gruyere and ham, the other with banana and chocolate. Oh and chantilly cream--one of my weak spots. I too am laughing at myself for writing about food this much, go ahead, it’s okay.
Geneva wasn’t my favorite city, but I’m still glad I saw it. In the next post, I’ll write about the beautiful day trip to Gruyeres, Broc, and Montreux. Au revoir for now!