An Abridged yet Thorough Travel Guide to Edinburgh, Scotland

Thank goodness I have this blogging gig, because now I can a.) share my wisdom about visiting Edinburgh and b.) send the link to this article to all my friends and family who visit Edinburgh and want recommendations. This blog post is the upgraded edition of the list I keep ready in my Notes app. 

If the best thing about Edinburgh is its whimsical and historical ethos, then the second best thing is its size– the best tourist attractions are all located in pretty much one area, and it’s so easy to walk around, making it ideal for a trip of only a few days. Edinburgh is one of the most fun-factable places I’ve ever been, so I highly recommend hopping on a walking tour of any kind (or better yet, befriending people who live there). 

Edinburgh is essentially divided into two halves – Old Town and New Town (both UNESCO World Heritage sites!). I’ll give you my best recommendations for a tour of the Old and New Towns, including the must-see tourist attractions, museums, my own personal favorites, and at the end, some walking tours that are awesome if you have time and don’t mind spending a few quid (that’s British for “bucks”). 

Getting into Edinburgh

From the airport, you can take the Airport Bus (number 100) and it takes you directly to Princes Street (the city center) in about 30 minutes. It costs £6 for adults one way, and £8.50 for an open return (as in, back to the airport whenever you want– definitely the most cost-effective option!). There’s also a tram, which is priced about the same, and brings you to pretty much the same area. Both the bus and the tram are located right outside the airport– there’s only one exit, and the bus and tram stops are quite literally directly in front of you. 

Old Town

I get that I’m biased, but the Edinburgh Old Town is one of the most awesome “Old Towns” you’ll probably ever visit. It’s built around the Royal Mile, which, no, is not actually a mile long, but connects the Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace with one long road. It traces back to the 12th century. What! Along this road are tons of shops, houses, and side streets. If you go watch Guillermo del Toro’s new Frankenstein movie, it was filmed there! If you look closely, you might see my friend Ellie and I watching the horses trot down the Royal Mile and praying for a glimpse of Mia Goth. 

A photo I took during French class. Yeah. That mountain is Arthur's Seat, and the buildings are all part of Old Town. 

Old Town Itinerary 

• Visit Edinburgh Castle (duh)
  • You literally can’t miss the Castle– it’s on a giant hill (actually, 350 million year old volcanic rock), and it’s visible from most parts of the city. You can go up to it to see it up close for free, and you get an awesome view of the city.
  • Pro tip: unless you’re really into military, Scottish, or British history, I actually don’t think going into the castle is worth the £21.50. (Personally, I’d put that money towards a ticket to Holyrood Palace instead). With the Castle, you basically pay to walk all around the exterior, with only a few interior sections open to the public. Besides, the best view of Edinburgh is one with the Castle in it.
• St Giles. Cathedral (and the rest of the Royal Mile)
  • When you leave the Castle and walk down the Royal Mile, it’s hard to miss the eccentric cathedral known as St. Giles. It’s free to enter, and often has free concerts or even rehearsals from local choirs and bands. Definitely a must-see.
• Holyrood Palace
  • If you’re into history, I totally recommend Holyrood Palace! Mary Queen of Scots resided here for a time, and the Royal Family still uses this property.
  • Buying tickets in advance is cheaper than on the day, and you can buy them here. There are also lots of discounts for young people.
    • If you’re 18-24, it's only £13.50! Just make sure you buy it in advance!
  • *Holyrood Palace is a little bit removed from the busy part of the Royal Mile, and not many buses stop there, so I’d factor this into your plan.
• Grassmarket
  • Once you’ve gotten your fill of the Royal Mile, take a walk to Grassmarket. If you can believe it, it’s also full of cool historical stuff.
  • A super cool chain of thrift stores, W. Armstrong and Son, has many locations around Edinburgh, and my favorite one is on Grassmarket. Even if you’re not looking to shop, that place is like a museum of epic vintage clothes.
• Victoria Street
  • Allegedly, this is the street that inspired Diagon Alley from Harry Potter, and apparently, it’s the most photographed street in Scotland. It’s on Grassmarket, and across the street from the aforementioned W. Armstrong and Son.
• Greyfriars Kirkyard
  • For any Harry Potter fans, this graveyard is basically a pilgrimage site. Not only is it a beautiful place, if you want to find the origins of some famous fictional names, such as Potter, McGonagall,  Black, Cruikshanks, and Tom Riddle, take a turn about this cemetery. I approached it as a scavenger hunt, but here’s a guide in case you’re in a time crunch, or just impatient.
  • Pro tip: Google the history of graverobbing in Edinburgh. Or just follow this link. And maybe listen to Radiohead’s “Bodysnatchers” while you’re at it.
• National Museum of Scotland
  • Located in between Greyfriars and Bristo Square, the National Museum is a must-see, because it’s the one thing every traveler loves to hear: it’s free!! Go see Dolly the Sheep!
• Surgeon’s Hall Museum
  • This one’s for the folks with a strong stomach, an interest in medical history (which Edinburgh is extremely prominent in), grave robbing (yet again), and £6-9.50 to spare (price dependant on your age).
  • This museum is historically and politically fascinating, infuriating, and worth a visit, and will stick in your mind for a long time after.
• Edinburgh University
  • Speaking of graverobbing, go check out my alma mater! The main campus of the University is in Old Town.
  • Check out Old College, which is the law school, and what you’ll see if you search images of Edinburgh University.
  • Check out Teviot Row House, on Bristo Square, which is the oldest purpose-built student union building in the whole entire world (!). It’s pretty epic. Anyone can go in, and there’s a cute cafe and historic bar inside.
• The Meadows
  • Who doesn’t love a giant park? It’s a very local area of Edinburgh, and right behind the uni, so also lots of students. There are also dogs everywhere, which is a big win for a lot of us.
  • If you like hot chocolate, you must go to Uplands Roast in the Meadows, directly behind the university main library. It’s the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had in my life, and I’ve lived in France. I specifically advise you to get the vegan version– it’s less sweet than the regular one, and much more enjoyable, IMO.
• Arthur’s Seat
  • Last but not least, Arthur’s Seat is a small mountain in Edinburgh that gives the most gorgeous view of the city. It’s a “hike,” in the sense that it’s a mountain and mildly steep, but will only take you about 30-45 minutes to walk up. I’ve seen people do it in heels. It doesn’t take long, and the payout is SO worth it! 

That time the Northern Lights were in Edinburgh! I took this picture when my flatmates and I went to see them. That mountain in the distance is Arthur's Seat!

New Town Itinerary

New Town has an equally interesting history as Old Town-- it was built due to overcrowding in the Old Town, so the elite built the New Town to escape the squalor. Nowadays, New Town is home to lots of nice bars, restaurants, and cafes, as well as higher-end shops and hotels. 

• Princes Street
  • Basically the shopping center of Edinburgh. If you take the bus or tram from the airport into Edinburgh, this is where it lets you out.
  • The Scott Monument is located on Princes Street (you’ll know it when you see it), dedicated to Sir Walter Scott, a renowned Scottish poet and historian. Edinburgh is also very well known for its literary history, earning the title of a UNESCO City of Literature (the very first of its kind: Edinburgh!)
• Princes Street Gardens
  • You get an unreal view of the Old Town from here, including the Castle-- probably the best view in the city. The gardens themselves are gorgeous, and perfect for a stroll.
• George Street and Rose Street
  • Located parallel to Princes Street, these two streets are lined with higher-end restaurants and stores.
  • I highly recommend Chez Jules, which is a French restaurant in New Town that’s reasonably priced and very yummy. A local favorite for sure. Book a reservation in advance, though, because it fills up fast!
• National Portrait Gallery
  • Another free and great place to visit, especially if you’re into art, history, or art history! They have a nice cafe, too, right when you walk in.
• Calton Hill
  • A great place to view New Town and parts of Old Town from above, and a very easy walk from Princes Street. 

That covers the absolute necessities of Edinburgh as a tourist, though there is so much to that city. If anything historical or literary has ever interested you, Edinburgh is the place to be. Here's a quick list of my favorites when I was living in Edinburgh-- my criteria were tastiness, ambiance, and most importantly: affordability. Student budget and all that. 

Cafes and Breakfast 

• Southern Cross Cafe (Cockburn Street) (it’s pronounced co-burn, rhymes with toe-burn, if that helps.)
• Kilimanjaro Cafe (Newington/university area)
• Black Medicine (Newington/university area)
• Cappucino (off the Royal Mile)
• Books N' Cup (Tollcross)

Lunch and Dinner

• Ting Thai Caravan (2 locations in Edinburgh– one on Bristo Square and one on Lothian Road, near-ish Princes Street)
• The Fiddler’s Arms (Grassmarket, so pretty touristy, but my favorite fish and chips in town (to be fair, though, I haven’t tried many))
• Chez Jules (New Town, and as aforementioned, awesome vibes and good prices)
• Tuk Tuk Indian Street Food (2 locations in Edinburgh– one in Tollcross and one on Drummond Street, both centrally located!)
• Civerino's Slice (2 locations, and soooo good.)
• Beirut (Old Town/univeristy area) 

Bars and Clubs 

• Doghouse on Newington Road – kooky queer bar with awesome atmosphere!
• NQ64 - an arcade bar on Lothian Road, near Grassmarket
• Frankenstein’s - a Frankenstein themed pub, which is inherently cool, and Frankenstein's monster raises from the table (hanging from the ceiling) at random a few times a night 😍
• I’ve never actually been here, but at this bar you learn to make cocktails that are Harry Potter themed, and I've heard magic wands are involved.
• Stramash - live music, free entry, good vibes, enough tables to put your coat down then keep dancing, what’s not to love?
• Most of the clubs on Cowgate are where the university students go, and there are also a few in New Town, which is nice if you’re over 19 years old. 

Finally, here are some walking tours that might interest you. There are tons of varieties of all these tours, so I suggest researching and seeing what piques your interest! Alongside history and culture-based tours, there are TONS of “haunted” tours of Edinburgh. There’s a whole bus line dedicated to it. Here are some popular ones that tourists tend to love:

• Tour of the Edinburgh Dungeons
• Harry Potter Walking Tour
• Edinburgh “City of the Dead” Tour
• Ghost Bus Tour
• Mary King’s Close

In conclusion, just go to Edinburgh. It’s awesome. And it doesn't feel like a huge city (because it isn’t) which might be a great change of pace, depending on where you’re coming from. Seriously, feel free to reach out to me with any questions! I love Edinburgh and would be so happy to help anyone planning a visit!