The Many Colors of Oktoberfest

Emiko is an American student studying in Germany as part of the CBYX (Congress-Bundestag Youth Exchange) scholarship exchange program. 

I wouldn’t truly be experiencing Bavarian life if I were to skip the most iconic traditional festival in the country: Oktoberfest. 

Every year, 42 hectares of open space are transformed into the world’s largest Volksfest, or people’s festival, and the results are absolutely breathtaking. From the strings of lights to the painted tents, color pours over the festival in waves, welcoming people of every age, lifestyle, and background. The sweet, warm scent of Lebkuchenherzen – traditional decorated gingerbread hearts that are often worn around the neck – mingles with the roasted sugar of candied almonds, saturating the air with sweetness. The lively oom-pah tunes of brass bands spill out from every corner, announcing their presence even before you’ve left the Munich train station. Oktoberfest is legendary, and being there and soaking in its sights and sounds is something I will never forget.

I’d spent some time the day before learning about why Oktoberfest became a tradition in the first place, and what the answers I’d found weren’t what I was expecting. In 1810, Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig and his bride, Princess Therese, held a public celebration to commemorate their marriage. Among the festivities was a horse race on a meadow outside Munich that was named “Theresienwiese” (Therese’s Meadow) in her honor. The event was so loved by the people of Munich that they decided to repeat it the following year, and Oktoberfest was born. It has since grown into the sprawling, colourful celebration that now attracts millions from around the world, and this year, I got to join in!

Given its immense scale, most attendees rely on public transport to reach the festival. I boarded a train to Munich that was already alive with laughter and song, and I was surrounded by people in lederhosen and dirndls who began celebrating the moment they boarded. It was packed, yes, but the energy was infectious and almost electric: a perfect overture to the day ahead. Arriving in the city, I made my way to the entrance of the festival. Banners fluttered high in the sky, heralding the opening weekend of Oktoberfest and the wonders it held within. Ordinarily, a crowd of this size might have overwhelmed me, yet amidst this particular mass of people, I felt free.

The festival sprawled in every direction, and even if you spent the whole day, it would barely be enough time to scratch the surface of the wonders it held for visitors. We explored three of the famed beer tents, each clearly (and surprisingly) distinct from the others. Expecting a more uniform atmosphere, I was instead met with unique decorations and music at each tent, giving them all their own personalities. 

And then, one of the most jaw-dropping sights of the day: the waiters. Held high above their heads were trays larger than the roof of a car balanced effortlessly on one hand, each holding between 12 and 15 steins of beer, gleaming in the sunlight, and never spilling a single drop. One passed right by me, moving so swiftly and steadily that I was rooted to the spot, too stunned to even snap a photo. These servers train to carry 10 to 12 steins with ease, yet many routinely bear even more. It’s an amazing ballet of balance and endurance that you simply won’t see anywhere else in the world.

Beyond the tents, the festival stretched forward into a maze of huge carnival rides, bright lights, and delicious food. I was drawn to the largest, most daring attractions, and I rode on several, letting the wind whip across my face as the world spun and tumbled around me. Though fairly expensive at around €10 per ride, those that I rode were like quick shots of adrenaline that cut through the warmth of the afternoon sun. That cool air was a fleeting relief from the sweltering heat that settled over the crowds and dug itself straight into the concrete.

As the sun began its descent in the sky, the celebration never seemed to end, even outside the gates of the festival. I left as the sky turned orange and bathed the city in amber light, and as our train pulled its way out of the Munich station, the music faded into a soft hum behind us. By the time I reached home hours later, my feet ached, my hair smelled faintly of sugar and smoke, and yet my mind still buzzed with every color and sound I’d taken in during the day.

Oktoberfest was a living, breathing mosaic of Bavarian culture that had swept me up the moment I arrived – and didn’t let go until long after I’d left. It was a day of noise and color and warmth that together displayed how vibrant life here can be. As exhausted as I was in the evening, I knew one thing with absolute certainty: I’m so grateful I didn’t miss it. Oktoberfest is a foundation of culture here in Bavaria, extravagantly sewn into its history, and now, a little piece of it is woven into mine, too.